(author: Ivelin Kalushkov)

You have chosen the right equipment for your self, and have decided to buy second-hand!

Purchasing second-hand equipment can be the best solution if you’re on a limited budget, but it also comes with its own challenges and specifics.

The main drawback of new equipment is usually the higher price! Nowadays, the price of a new set of beginner gear (wing, harness, reserve parachute) ranges between €2500 and €4000. For many people taking their first steps in the sport, this can be a significant and often unaffordable amount. For this reason, many people prefer to purchase second-hand equipment.

Advantages of buying used equipment:

• Lower initial cost
• Possibility of finding very good deals
• Peace of mind when you hang your wing in trees/bushes during your first landing 🙂

Disadvantages of buying second-hand equipment:

• Limited selection
• Uncertain timeframe for finding suitable gear
• Risk of scams
• Shortened wing lifespan
• Dangerous or unusable equipment

How to avoid scams and make the right choice:

• Avoid buying from general sales websites such as OLX, eBay, Marketplace, etc. Instead, focus on websites or groups that specialize in paragliding equipment sales – paraglidingforum.com, Facebook groups for paragliding sales, and others. The communities in these platforms often serve as a good filter for scam deals and low-quality or unsafe equipment.
• Always request a glider test if possible. Even if it’s not a full inspection, at least ask for a porosity test – this is the best way to assess how much life is left in the paraglider. Avoid sellers who refuse such a test, even if you’re willing to pay for it yourself.

• Although rare, avoid paragliders without an information label or a serial number. Such wings are either prototypes that have leaked into the market or have been stolen. Additionally, you can never be certain of the exact size of the wing.
• Avoid lesser-known brands. Even though there may be attractive offers, most small manufacturers cut costs on development, materials, or wing testing. The paraglider brands you can trust for a first wing are: Advance, Ozone, Nova, Niviuk, UP, Skywalk, Mac Para, Swing, Gin. Most of the mentioned brands also offer harness systems and reserve parachutes. There are several manufacturers that specialize only in harnesses, parachutes, and accessories, who also produce high-quality equipment. These include: Charly, Woody Valley, Sup Air, Companion, Kortel Design
• If possible, do a test flight with the equipment.
• Always consult with your instructor before purchasing any gear regarding the classes and models that would be suitable for you.

How to Assess a Paraglider

When buying a second-hand paraglider, it’s important to inspect the wing. Ideally, this should be done in person, but often we have to rely on photos. Here’s what to focus on when evaluating the wing:

Canopy

• As mentioned earlier – the ideal way to assess the condition of the fabric is by measuring its porosity. If this isn’t possible, at least make sure the fabric is sufficiently airtight – try to suck air through the upper surface of the wing, near the leading edge. If you can suck in air, the fabric is likely significantly worn.
• Look at the fabric from the inside of the upper surface – when the coating ages and cracks, star-shaped white lines often appear in the folding areas. If the fabric appears “powdery,” the coating is likely aged and cracked, and the wing is heavily worn. Keep in mind that this is rarely noticeable with certain types of fabric and lighter colors.

• Repairs to the fabric of an old paraglider are a normal occurrence and, as long as they are done correctly, do not pose a safety issue. If there are patches, they should have rounded edges (not corners), be well-adhered to the fabric, and have minimal wrinkles. Tears longer than 10–15 cm should ideally be stitched as well. If cells have been replaced, this is not a safety concern, provided the repair was done professionally—compare the stitching of the new cells to that of the original ones.
• Color fading is not always a problem for the wing itself, but it can indicate significant wear. If fading is observed, it’s advisable to have the wing undergo a fabric strength test (betso test). In the field, you can stretch the fabric firmly by pinching it between your fingers in two spots—it should not tear when pulled by hand.
• Inspect the seams near the leading edge and the trailing edge—if they are heavily soiled, the wing has likely seen significant use. Pay attention to signs of abrasion near the curved areas of the leading edge.

• Inspect the condition of the internal ribs—there should be no visible tears or stretched threads.

• Have someone inflate the wing and try to inspect both the upper and lower surfaces. If you notice deviations from the normal profile—large wrinkles on the upper or lower surface—this may indicate stretched ribs and significant wear. Keep in mind that such wrinkles can also result from incorrect trim settings, which is fixable.

• Compare the wing’s information label—make sure it matches the model and size of the wing you’re inspecting.

Lines

• The color and cleanliness of the lines are a good indicator of how much a wing has been used. Typically, the areas with the most contact with our hands are the most worn—the color of the lines near the risers suggests how much the wing has been flown. The more hours it has in the air, the darker, dirtier, and more worn the lines near the risers will appear.

• The main brake line is also a good indicator—the more worn it is in the area around the pulley, the more the wing has been used.
• Minor tears in the sheathing of the lines are not a problem and do not compromise the wing’s safety, as long as the core threads of the main line are not affected.

• Avoid wings that show signs of “field” repairs, such as lines tied in knots.
• If you see non-uniform lines (different sheathing color or cleaner lines), this is a sign that lines have been replaced. Replacements and repairs are not an issue as long as they have been done professionally. If you notice a non-uniform line, compare its length in a stretched state to its counterpart on the opposite half-wing – the difference should not exceed 1 cm.
• Compare random lines with their mirrored counterparts between the left and right half-wings. If you notice differences greater than 1–2 cm, it’s likely that the trim of the wing is significantly off, which is a sign of considerable wear.
• Inspect the stitching of the lines at the trailing edge and stabilizers – if they are compromised, it’s a sign of wear.
• Conduct a field strength test on the lines – with low-category wings, you should not be able to break even the thinnest lines of the wing with your bare hands. If you manage to break a line, it’s a sign of significant wear – even if the fabric is in good condition, a full line set replacement may be necessary, which can be expensive. Ideally, the wing should come with a line strength test.
• Having proper trim (line lengths matching the manufacturer’s specifications) is essential for both safety and flight performance. In low-category wings, it is rare for the lines to show large deviations, even after many flight hours. Signs of improper trim may include unusual behavior during flight or while launching and landing – more difficult inflation, lower speed, or instability in flight. Another sign could be deformations and wrinkles in the profile of an inflated wing. The more taut the wing’s fabric is, the more likely the trim is still good. The only way to check the trim is through a trim test, which involves measuring the lengths of all the lines.

Risers

• The cleanliness of the risers is one of the best indicators of a paraglider’s wear level. Since the risers are in direct contact with the pilot’s hands, they usually wear out first – the darker and dirtier the risers are (especially the upper part of the A-risers), the more used the wing is.

• The attachment point to the harness often develops a strong gray-black tint and a metallic sheen after many flight hours and contact with the metal of the carabiners. Small tears in the outer fabric layer are often visible – these are not a safety concern but are a sign of wear. The fresher and cleaner the attachment point looks, the better preserved the wing is.

Harness Evaluation

When purchasing a harness, hidden defects are rarely an issue, as the load-bearing system is usually exposed.

• Avoid heavily worn harness systems with faded color, as this indicates potential material weakening. Steer clear of harnesses with compromised strap integrity.
• When buying a harness with a seat board, check the condition of the board. In most harnesses, the board can be removed for inspection. A broken board can pose a serious safety risk if the reserve parachute needs to be deployed. Boards are generally easy to replace, but in some harnesses with carbon boards, replacements can be quite expensive.
• Check the reserve parachute attachment bridles – some harnesses are sold without them, and you may need to purchase these separately. If the harness comes with bridles, ensure they are not frayed.
• Verify the functionality of all buckles – make sure they fully latch and do not open under tension.
• If you buy a second-hand harness with an installed reserve parachute, ALWAYS check and repack the reserve before use.
• It is strongly recommended to replace the carabiners on a second-hand harness – you never know if they’ve been exposed to stress loads. This is MANDATORY if the harness has aluminum carabiners!

Second-Hand Reserve Parachute

The reserve parachute is the only piece of gear that may never pay off, but when it does, it pays off in about 3 seconds. The reserve is not your second chance to survive – it’s your last! For this reason, making compromises when buying a reserve parachute is not advisable. It is recommended to always purchase a new reserve parachute!

If you still need to buy a second-hand parachute:

• Never buy a parachute that has been repaired.
• Never buy a parachute with visible signs of mold or water damage.
• Do not buy a parachute older than 12 years from the date of manufacture – the fabric ages over time even if unused.
• Do not buy a parachute without an information label specifying its size and load capacity.
• When buying a second-hand parachute, request its logbook, which should include records of regular repackings, where and by whom they were done. If you have doubts about the logbook’s reliability, verify it with the last person who repacked it.
• Always repack a second-hand reserve parachute before mounting it into your harness.

• It’s recommended to have your reserve parachute repacked at least once a year. It is always recommended to give your reserve to a professional for a re-pack. If you buy a parachute with a non-standard shape, make sure there are professionals in your area who can repack it for you.

Whatever gear you choose, always consult your instructor or flying club. Fortunately, paragliding is a sport with a relatively high level of community moderation and self-regulation.

Good luck with your search and many happy flights with your first gear!