(author: Ivelin Kalushkov)

You’ve completed your beginner’s paragliding course – your perspective on the world will never be the same again! Before, the weather was just rainy or sunny, and clouds were simply white or grey. Now, the weather has a good temperature gradient, the wind is 3 m/s from the east-northeast, the cloud base is around 2500 meters with 30% cumulus cover – in short, perfect for flying! It’s time to fly, but first, you need to acquire your first gear.

The correct Class

Before you go ahead with buying your gear, you need to have a clear idea of what exactly you’re looking for based on what you hope to get out of the sport. This will determine the class of wing you should be aiming for.

Currently, the most widely used classification for paraglider wing classes is the European certification program – EN 926. According to it, wings are divided into four main classes: A, B, C, and D.

The lower the class of the paraglider, the higher its level of passive safety. Due to the aerodynamic nature of paragliders, improving a wing’s flight performance (speed, glide ratio) typically comes at the cost of some stability. Lower-class wings are more forgiving of pilot errors and are more stable, but in turn, they offer weaker flight performance.

When looking at wing classes, it’s important to remember that a wing’s class only reflects its passive safety – not necessarily its flight performance. According to the certification, it’s entirely possible to have a higher-class wing that performs worse than a lower-class one.

Choosing the right wing class should be based on two main factor. What level you want to reach in the sport and how much time you can devote to it.

• If you think you’ll be flying up to 50 hours a year, then paragliding for you is more of a leisure activity and a source of enjoyment. You’re not chasing peak performance, and the improved characteristics of higher-class wings aren’t worth the increased risk. Flying 50 hours a year typically equals about two flying weekends per month. With lower annual airtime, it’s better to stick to the lower classes – A or low B.
• If your annual airtime is between 50 and 100 hours, you’ll likely encounter a wider variety of flying conditions. You will be able to handle more complex situations. If you’re motivated to chase greater achievements – like distance and airtime – the improved performance of high B class paragliders will benefit you.
• If you’re flying between 100 and 150 hours a year, paragliding probably takes up a significant part of your free time. You’ll likely have the experience and skills necessary to handle a C class wing.
• If you fly over 150 hours a year, paragliding is more than a hobby for you. You spend enough time in the air to safely manage a D class paraglider.

• Always consult your instructor before purchasing gear, especially regarding the wing class and model most suitable for you.

These days, unofficial intermediate wing classes like low B and high B are often mentioned. These subclasses are based on the wing’s certification test results. The more B-level test scores a wing receives, the more it falls firmly within the B class—meaning it’s closer to B than A, and is therefore considered a high B. Conversely, a low B is usually a wing that would otherwise be considered A class, but received a few B scores during testing.

When choosing a wing class, it’s important to be honest with yourself about how much time you’ll realistically dedicate to paragliding. As a rule of thumb, your first wing should fall within the lower safety categories—class A or low B. After about a year of active flying, you’ll get a better sense of your availability and can reassess your wing class. Jumping classes is generally not recommended unless the transition is supported by additional safety training.

A paraglider and a pilot are like two interlocking gears—if they’re not well matched, the entire system won’t operate optimally. There’s no point in flying a high-class wing if you’re not utilizing its full potential. Choosing the wrong wing class can often demotivate or even scare you if it doesn’t match your skill level.

Don’t forget that 200 km records set 15–20 years ago were flown on competition or open class wings with weaker performance than today’s class A wings.

Flying Style

Unless you’re passionate about hike & fly or truly want to minimize weight, in most cases, non-lightweight wings offer better performance than their lightweight counterparts.

Lightweight wings generally have a shorter lifespan due to the materials used.

If you choose a lightweight wing, consider whether you want it for cross-country flying or simply for descending quickly from the mountains. Wings with smaller surfaces than their standard counterparts tend to be more stable but sink faster—making them more suitable for mountain hike & fly rather than long-distance flying. There are also models with regular surface area but lightweight construction—though their weight savings compared to standard versions are usually minimal.

Brands and Models

When choosing your first wing, you’ll find the market flooded with options, each one claiming to be the best.

In general, most brands offer certified gear, and it’s almost impossible to end up with poor craftsmanship or unsafe wings. Still, for your first wing, always choose one certified according to EN or LTF standards.

When selecting a brand, focus on large, established manufacturers known for quality materials, build integrity, and proper certification.

Trusted wing brands for beginners include:

Advance, Ozone, Nova, Niviuk, UP, Skywalk, Mac Para, Swing, Gin.

Most of these brands also offer harnesses and reserve parachutes.

There are also a few reputable manufacturers that only make harnesses, parachutes, and accessories, such as:

Charly, Woody Valley, Sup Air, Companion, Kortel Design

When choosing your first wing, try to be honest with yourself about your expected annual airtime and goals. Don’t fall for trends or marketing gimmicks suggesting a class B wing flies like a class C. Occasionally, manufacturers release wings that were originally designed for a higher class but unexpectedly performed well in tests and were certified at a lower level. These wings often give a false sense of passive safety. Keep in mind that tests are standardized and only assess specific scenarios—while the air and nature we fly in are anything but standardized.

Stick with well-established beginner-friendly brands and models that have proven themselves over time.

Harness System

Harnesses are not classified by safety levels like paragliders. Instead, they are categorized by purpose—beginner, lightweight, competition, etc.

• For your first harness, choose a model that offers high stability and passive safety.

Avoid models with no protector or only very small ones. As a beginner pilot, you will make mistakes—it’s better to have some form of protection than none at all.

• Also, avoid aerodynamic competition harnesses as your first choice. These harnesses often have a lower suspension point and can be overly sensitive for most beginner pilots. While they may improve aerodynamics, the gain is negligible when paired with an A or B class wing.

• Models with a seat board are generally easier to get used to and offer better control over weight-shifting, but they are also heavier.

Reserve Parachute

• Size DOES matter!

The primary requirement when choosing a reserve parachute is its size. It is strongly recommended that the parachute covers your full in-flight weight + 20%.

Avoid choosing a smaller parachute just to save 10 grams or 50 euros. The more heavily loaded a parachute is, the faster it descends, increasing the likelihood of injury upon landing. At the same time, choosing a parachute that is too large can lead to instability during descent and potentially slower deployment.

• Lightweight or Not?

The reserve parachute is the only part of your gear you hope to never use. That’s exactly why investing in a lightweight model is a good idea—it reduces the total gear weight without compromising safety. The downside? Lightweight reserves are usually more expensive.

• Shapes

Reserve parachutes come in a variety of shapes—most commonly round (canopy-style) and square. There are also triangular and round-square hybrid designs available.

In general standard round parachutes are the most affordable, but offer the least stability during descent. Models with multiple air inlets (dynamic openings) typically provide better descent stability, and often also lower weight and slower descent rates.

• Steerable vs. Non-Steerable

Steerable reserve parachutes are the highest class on the market. They provide one of the greatest advantages: after deployment, being able to steer towards a landing area or maneuver to avoid an obstacle.

Steerable parachutes have two main drawbacks – significantly higher price and more complex repacking methods.

It is recommended that the reserve parachute be repacked at least once a year. If you purchase a parachute in a non-standard shape and are not sure how it should be packed, make sure there are specialists in your area who can repack it for you.

New or Second-Hand Equipment ?

For most beginner pilots, the first issue they are faced with is whether to purchase new equipment or second-hand.

The advantages of new equipment are clear – a wide selection of brands, models, sizes, color combinations, etc. If you’ve decided to purchase brand-new equipment, then your task is made easier.

Once you’ve chosen the desired brand and model, check the manufacturers’ websites to find out who the local distributors are for that brand. Avoid ordering new equipment from unofficial distributors, as you may face issues with warranty support if needed.

The main drawback of new equipment is usually the higher price! Nowadays, the cost of a new set of beginner gear (wing, harness, reserve parachute) ranges between €2500 and €4000. For many people taking their first steps in the sport, this can be a significant and often unaffordable amount. For this reason, many people prefer to opt for purchasing second-hand equipment.